Yogyakarta

We have taken a very chilled approach to Yogyakarta and made the most of being in the same place for more than 2 nights! Yogyakarta feels like the Ubud of Java and is where it is all going on, we have instantly noticed that Java is a lot less touristy and we are getting a lot more attention here. By attention I mean people stopping in the streets to stare and asking us for photographs because we are white, I remember it happening a lot in India but it always feels quite strange. We actually asked a tour guide why they do it and she said that the Indonesians are really intrigued by us because we look different, have white skin and pointy noses!

When we arrived in Yogyakarta we were taken straight to our hotel which is like stepping into a quiet oasis after being on the busy hot streets. It has a nice little poolside restaurant so you don’t have to leave at all if you don’t want too. By the time we had unpacked and eaten etc. it was around 3 o’clock so we didn’t want to venture too far, we ended up wandering the streets near to where we are staying and finding a lovely little restaurant that we went and had a drink at, when I say drink I mean 2 bottles of wine and a three course meal! It was nice to just sit and relax drinking nice wine (something there is a lack of in Indonesia).

The next day we spend the morning researching things to do and trips we could go on, we booked a trip to Borobudur and Prambanan temples for the Monday, and then looked at where we could go and see a Javanese show. We wandered to the ticket office and booked dinner and the show and then grabbed a Becak (like a backwards rickshaw that had like a sofa on the front and you get cycled around) to the cool market area with all the bars, basically where it’s all happening called Maliboro road. We had a wander round looking at all the markets and then realised we had walked 15 minutes walking in the wrong direction (it was so annoying in the heat). We turned around and headed back and found a cafe for lunch (it was about 3ish by now). After we had spent 3 hours in the cafe (there is a trend here) we got another Becak – this time it was motorised not pedal so much more fun as you feel like you are going so fast, to the ballet. After the buffet dinner we were taken into the theatre for the show.

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The show (a traditional ballet called Ramayana) wasn’t really our thing but we are really glad we did it, I could really appreciate the amazing costumes and the performance. It was so hard to follow what was going on in the story though, it was a love story and involved a man cutting off his private parts and a fight between giants and monkeys. It was a very beautiful performance though and it was great to see this side of the Javanese culture. There was a huge tropical thunderstorm in the night which was really cool to watch it rained that much that the pool depth rose by 4inches!

The next day we spent the morning wandering round the very hot streets looking at the buildings and Dutch fort that is here, I can’t tell you how hot it is though it was unbearable. We ended up in another cafe (haha) and Chris decided it would be a good idea to try a drink called ‘Devils drink’ which was snakes blood mixed with honey. It arrived and in the bottom was a snakes heart and also snakes marrow, it looked disgusting and his face was a picture (he later admitted that he’s been reading too many Spider Shepard books by Stephen Leather about a really tough SAS guy who got his name from eating a spider. It’s my fault I got him into the books).

Anyway we got back to the hotel and spent the afternoon by the pool, before getting another Becak up to Maliboro road again to see it at night.

The next day wasn’t much different we have been so full on with our traveling that we have tired ourselves out, we made the executive decision very early on that we would have a pool day, which was so nice! We had a lot of nice food that day too including the best falafel salad ever. That night for some reason we thought it would be an amazing idea to get drunk even though we had to be up at 3am for a trip- I stopped drinking pretty early but my lovely boyfriend was a tad rough the next morning.

At 3am we were up for our tour or Borobudur and Prambanan Temples, we were picked up by our tour company which was probably the most unorganised tour I have ever been on, it was so funny. We headed to Borobudur for sunrise and honestly the driver was mental, swerving, driving very fast, cutting red lights and driving on the wrong side of the road. We got to Borobudur and were quickly hustled into the hotel entrance as we had opted to pay more and actually see the sunrise from inside the temple.

Not a lot is known about Borobudur’s history, it is a Buddist temple that was built sometime between AD750 and AD850 and 60000 cubic metres of stone (2million stone blocks) were used to build it. As there was a decline in Buddhism in the country Borobudur was left abandoned until the early 20th century where the Dutch started to restored the temple but the hill on which it sat started to subside. A Unesco funded restoration took place between 1973 and 1983 to restore and stabilise.

The temple is beautiful it’s very hard to explain but it is 118m by 118m and has six square terraces which are topped by three circular ones, with four stairways leading to the top. The three circular terraces contain large stone bells that surround one amazing large bell in the centre. There was a scale model at Borobudur so I took a picture to make it visual for you (see always thinking about my readers).

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So now you have had the history lesson we were there for 4.30 waiting for sunrise which was again not the impressive but the crowds were a lot quieter and we got to see the amazing temple as the light increased, and then about an hour later a gorgeous sun broke through the haze! We were given a breakfast and told to meet at 8.30 but at 9.30 we set off due to the crazy unorganised tour, who tried to tell us we weren’t even on their tour! They didn’t believe us until we knew their names!

Next up we were off to Prambanan temple which is a Hindu temple and it is so spectacular. This temple was built between the 8th and 10th century AD when Java was ruled by Buddist Sailendras in the south and Hindu Sanjayas in the north. Prambanan also made the Unesco list in 1991, it is currently being restored today as in 2006 it suffered a lot of damage in an earthquake.

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The main spire of Prambanan is 47m high and the carvings are very detailed and intricate, the temple consists of eight main and eight minor temples in the main complex and it honestly was so impressive. I cannot decided which one I preferred. It was such a hot day though we were really struggling I think it’s one of the hottest we have had. After this we were taken back to the hotel, it was around 2.30pm so we just chilled for the rest of the day, we had to be up again at 6.30 for our next 8 hour train to the capital Jakarta!

Also another very successful train ride I managed to write my blog and watch 7 episodes of Keeping Up With The Kardashians!

Lucy 😘

 

Tasty Indonesian Recipes

I promised I would share a few of the best recipes for the cooking class we had about a week ago in Ubud, for those who have said they want to try. I think the initial big shop could set you back a bit but once you have all the spices and sauces at home they will last for ages (and I bet some of you curry and mulled wine lovers already have a lot of this stuff). Now from what I gathered from the cooking class a lot of the Indonesian dishes work from one ‘basic’ yellow sauce that they use, so I will start with that and then give you the other delights you can whip up afterwards. The sauce can be made in a big batch then frozen for 2-3 weeks and trust me it’s worth the effort it’s so tasty!

Basic Yellow Sauce (Base Gede Bumbu Kuning) – Serves 4-6

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Ingredients
10 shallots
15 garlic cloves
2 thumb sized pieces of lesser galangal (this is in the same family as ginger if you can’t buy raw it is often exported as a preserve, so try the preserved garlic etc isle).
2 thumb size pieces of great galangal (same as above)
2 thumb sized pieces of ginger
1 teaspoon of turmeric powder
2 hot chillies (usually green)
3 red chillies
4 macadamia nuts
1 teaspoon of coriander seeds
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon white pepper
2 cloves
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1 tablespoon palm sugar (it says online sainsbos do this)
1 stalk of lemongrass
2 bay leaves
2 teaspoons shrimp paste (Indonesian if possible but Thai etc will do)
3 tablespoons of coconut oil (can use other oils but this gives the sauce a better taste)
Pinch of salt and pepper

Instructions
1. Slice and remove seeds from both sets of chillies. Finely chop shallots, garlic, both types of galangal, ginger, nuts and chillies.
2. Blend the chopped ingredients, coriander seeds, turmeric powder, nutmeg and cloves in a pestle and mortar or blender until it forms a fine paste.
3. Sauté paste in your coconut oil. Crush the lemongrass stalk then add lemongrass, salt, pepper, palm sugar and bay leaves to the paste in the pan. Continue to fry for around 7 minutes on a low heat.
4. Then use for whatever dish you intend or let cool and then freeze.

Chicken in Coconut Curry (Be Siap Mesanten Kare Ayam) -Serves 4-6

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Ingredients
3 chicken breasts (can use any meat or fish)
Cup of cubed potato
7 cloves of garlic
3 shallots
1 spring onion
2 red chillies
3 tablespoons coconut cream
1/2 litre chicken stock
2 tablespoons of your pre prepared yellow sauce
1 tablespoon coconut oil (again can be substituted)
2 bay leaves
5 kaffir lime leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions
1. Slice chillies and remove seeds. Slice shallots, garlic and spring onion.
2. Clean, peel and cut potato into 2cm cubes and cut chicken into small slices.
3. Fry shallots, garlic and spring onion on medium heat until light brown. Add the basic yellow sauce and then the chicken and potato and mix together.
4. Add the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Break the bay leaves and kaffir lime leaves and add to stock, also adding salt and pepper to taste.
5. Add coconut cream and cook on low heat until chicken is cooked and potato is soft.
6. Serve with boiled rice and deep fried shallots (if you want to).

Chicken Satay (Sate Siap Sate Lilit Ayam) – approx 15 skewers

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Ingredients

500g minced chicken (or any other minced meat you choose)
2 tablespoons of your pre prepared basic yellow sauce
1 tablespoon palm sugar
1 wedge of lime
Salt and pepper to taste

15 skewer sticks – you can use ice lolly stick, kebab sticks or lemongrass.

Instructions
1. Add minced chicken, basic yellow sauce, palm sugar and salt and pepper into a bowl and squeeze lime over and mix throughly with your hands.
2. Take around one tablespoon of mixture to form a ball and mould the mixture onto your skewer sticks to make around 15 sticks.
3. Grill the sticks (or BBQ) until meat browns (they don’t take long to cook).
4. Serve as a starter or with rice for a main.

Steamed Fish in Banana Leaves (Pepesan Be Pasih Pepes Ikan) – Serves 4-6

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Ingredients
500g tuna steak (you can use other meats and fish)
3 medium tomatoes
1 cup lemon basil leaves
2 tablespoons of your pre prepared basic yellow sauce
Salt and pepper
Slice of lemon
Toothpicks
Banana leaf (you can use tinfoil or baking paper also)

Instructions
1. Slice tuna into 1cm cubes. Dice tomatoes.
2. Roughly mix tuna, tomato, lemon basil, yellow sauce, salt and pepper and squeeze over the lemon.
3. Place two tablespoons onto the banana leaf (foil or baking paper) and roll until mixture is wrapped, securing with a tooth pick at each end.
4. Steam the packages for ten minutes or grill for three.
5. They are now ready to serve with rice or whatever you choose

Coconut and Green Bean Salad (Jukut Urab)

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Ingredients
250g green beans
1/2 whole fresh coconut grated
2 tablespoons of your pre prepared basic yellow sauce
1 tablespoon palm sugar
1 lime
1/2 teaspoon salt

Instructions
1. Boil the green beans for two minutes so they are still crunch and slice into half centimetre sized pieces.
2. Grate coconut.
3. Mix the chopped beans, coconut, yellow sauce , palm sugar and salt and squeeze over the lime. Mix together and serve.

Now enjoy and if anyone does cook any of these please send me a picture and let me know how it goes 🙂

Lucy